Visiting Schio: Sacred Sites

The tiny town of Schio in the north-east of Italy, about 30 km from the provincial capital Vicenza, is full of sacred sites that bring here pilgrims from all over the world. At the same time, many of these sites are also wonderful places for nature walks and hikes.

The town is located in the foothills of Pasubio mountain, part of the Little Dolomites, and thus, be ready to go up and down the hilly paths during your walks (above: a view of Pasubio and Leogra river in Schio).

This post provides an overview and brief information about the different sites. Over the next few months, I hope to write more detailed posts about each site. Except for a pre-historic site, all the other places in this post are related to the Catholic church.

Pre-historic Prayer Sites on Mount Summano

Mount Summano towards the east of Schio is around 1300 m. high. Some believe that the its name indicates Pluto, the ancient God of the underworld; others think that it indicates the God of lightening and rain.

Ancient archaeological remains have also been found in a cave known as Bocca Lorenza, on the eastern side of Summano, which can be a great walk from the nearby Sant'Orso town.

Near the summit of Monte Summano, you can visit the church dedicated to St. Mary (above), as well as see the ancient site where prehistoric folks use to make sacred fire for worship (image below).

If you are used to mountain hikes, you can try the hike from Tretto or from Sant'Orso to the top of the mountain. It has plenty of places for panoramic views of the Schio valley below. Many years ago I tried this hike once, starting from Tretto, but it was too tough for me, I had to give it up half way (below, a view from the top).

St. Martin church in Schio

St Martin hill in Schio hosts one of the oldest churches in this area, which was built at the site of an older temple dedicated to a female deity. The first church was built here around 7th century CE. The first written document about this church is from 1185 CE.

In late 1985, a person from Schio called Renato Baron claimed to have a vision of Madonna on the hill, around 250 metres above the St Martin church. Over the following years, hundreds of his followers started collecting here for prayers. Some persons from the Catholic church, spoke against Baron and his cult.

For the pilgrims coming here from different parts of Europe, a proper walking path has been created leading to the site where Baron had his vision, and then to the top of the hill. You may or may not believe in Baron and his vision, but it is a wonderful place for a hike to the top of the hill. Come prepared with proper walking shoes, a cap and a bottle of water. You can see two views of this path here (above and below).

San Zeno Church in Magre, Schio

Magre is the part of the Schio located across the Leogra river bridge. Magre hill is located in the centre of this area, while the much higher, Magre mountain separates Leogra valley from the Agno valley on the west. Archaeological excavations on the Magre hill have shown objects from prehistoric to more recent times.

San Zeno area is located on the western slope of Raga mountain in Magre. To reach here, you need to walk till the end of Via Siberia road. It is a protected area and vehicles (including bicycles) are not allowed beyond a point. The tiny San Zeno church is from 14th century, and has been recently renovated.

It is located next to a waterfall, which looks beautiful after the rains.

The final 150-200 metres of the path require a steeper climb and some effort. So go there with proper walking shoes, a cap and a water bottle.

St. Mary Mother church in Pieve

This church goes back at least a thousand years. The legends say that it was built at the site of an older pagan temple. During medieval period, it was considered as the mother church for all the surrounding mountains areas. It was also the seat for a bishop, till the Duomo church was built in Schio in 1473.

Over the past centuries, this church (above) has been renovated many times, the last being in 1989, so it does not look so old. It still has some old frescoes and an old baptismal fountain. Next to the church, you can also see the old water canal, Roggia Maestra, from the 12th century.

This church is located in Pieve Bel Vicino, a few kilometres north of Schio. From the city centre, it takes a 45 minutes walk to reach there.

St. Francis church of Schio

This church and monastery were inaugurated in 1436. Built on the eastern edge of the medieval town on the hill of Olives, it is one of the most beautiful churches in the city. The church has a famous painting (below) by the well-known renaissance-period artist Francesco Verla (1470-1521) and a 14th century stone statue of Madonna.

The asymmetrical looking church (below) with a central nave and one sided aisle is open to public only on special occasions (at present, it is on the afternoons of the first Sundays of the month but that keeps on changing).

Duomo of Schio

Duomo was built in the city centre in 1473. It is placed on the Gorzone hill, right in front of the castle hill. An older Longobard tower and then a church had existed here before the construction of Duomo. It is dedicated to St. Peters. With stairs on the two sides for going up to the church, it has a majestic look. The external sculptures of the four evangelists are by Valetino Zajec. It dominates the central plaza, Piazza Rossi.

One of the paintings (Gesu Maestro, 1943) in Duomo has an indirect link with my wife's family. That painting is by Alfredo Ortelli, who lived in Magre. His sister Ita, was my mother-in-law's friend and after the death of her brother in 1963, lived with my wife's family for many years (in the house where I am writing this post).

FYI, Duomo is a cathedral level church, without a bishop - it can only be called Cathedral, if it has a bishop.

St. Jakob Church

Located on the road behind Duomo is the 15th century St Jakob's church. It has some nice paintings from 19th century. The most beautiful part of this church, in my opinion, is its 16th century bell-tower, in the image below (to see it, enter the portico next door, going to the back of the church).

St. Mary Chapel in Valletta

It is charming little chapel located in the valley between the Castle hill and the hill with St Francis church. A water canal passes underneath it and an old city gate can be seen next to it. The first documents about this chapel are from early 16th century but probably the church goes back to older times.

St. Bakhita's Canossian Church

The congregation of Daughters of Charity, also known as Canossian nuns, have an old history in Schio. One of their nuns, mother Bakhita, was declared a saint in 2000 by Pope John Paul II. Mother Bakhita (or St. Bakhita, if you prefer) had a very unusual story.

Born in Darfur region (Sudan) in 1869, she was taken from her village and sold as a slave when she was 7 years old. Her name Bakhita (fortunate) was given by the Arab slave-sellers. She ended up in the house of the Italian consul in Khartoum, who brought her to Venice, where she joined the nuns. She spent many years in Schio, and died here in 1947.

Pilgrims come to visit her tomb from all over the world. Her church (image above) and tomb are located in the city centre. A monument near the St Francis church (image below) remembers her and the millions of persons taken away from Africa as slaves.

In Conclusion

As you can see, even if Schio is only a tiny mountain town, it has many sacred places to visit, which are open to people of all religions. Many of these places, also provide opportunities for nature-walks along beautiful  and serene mountain paths. To conclude this post, here is a view of the city centre seen from the terrace of the Duomo of Schio.

*****

The Longilineal Women Sculptures of Arcisa Stefani

Arcisa Stefani is a sculptor and artist from Schio, who is known for her women's sculptures with thin, tall and elongated bodies. This post is about her, her art and her artistic journey.

Her sculptures make me think of the Mannerism style of art which had developed in Italy during late renaissance in 17th century. Some time ago, I had already written a post about some of the contemporary artists who show elongated bodies inspired from the Mannerism style in their art.

Let me start with a brief introduction about Mannerism, before presenting Arcisa and her sculptures.

Mannerism style of art in late renaissance period

In the 14th century, the beginning of the renaissance period in Italy saw important innovations in the works of artists. For example, the Lombard school saw a move towards realism, while in Tuscany, the artists, starting with Brunelleschi, developed the use of perspective in art. These refinements reached their peak in the works of masters like Leonardo da Vinci, Michaelangelo and Raphael during the 1500s.

This period was followed by an art movement known as "Mannerism", characterised by a compression of space, along with an elongated proportions of some body parts, specially necks, arms and legs. Different modern artists have been inspired by this style, especially for making tall thin women-bodies with elongated necks and limbs.

Arcisa Stefani

Arcisa had studied commerce at School and worked in sales for almost 25 years, before discovering the artist in her. She and her husband had a shop. She is retired now. 

Thirty years ago, Arcisa fell in love with the sculptures of Mario Converio, the resident sculptor of Schio. She decided that she also wanted to do something similar and became a disciple of Mario, and learned from him.

Then she joined an evening course for adults at the Schio's art school (Liceo artistico Martini). There, she worked with models and learned anatomy, postures, etc. Thus, coupled with the practical skills learned from Mario and the formal training at the art school, she started to experiment as a sculptor, while she formally continued to work in sales.

Once she started sculpting, she has never stopped. She loves working with clay. She prefers using her hands, though sometimes she can need instruments, to sharpen the edges or to give specific effects. About her work as an artist, she pointed to a sculpture and said, "For example, I had used a small rake like instrument to make those lines on the shawl."

The clay sculptures need to be heated at high temperatures (around 1,100 C). She gets it done at an industrial furnace on the way to Vicenza. The temperature needs to rise gradually over a period of few days to reach the maximum and then come down equally gradually. Thus, the sculptures need to stay at the furnace for about a week.

She uses few colours in her work. About the use of colours, she said, "Sometimes I add a little colour after baking the sculpture in the furnace. At home I have a few with colours, but I prefer the natural look. Once, I tried to experiment by adding coloured glass pieces, which I had collected at a beach, it came out very beautiful. However, in the furnace, one of the glass pieces popped out and got into another sculpture, at the arm of the figure. I gave some colour around it and it looked like a bracelet on that sculpture."

Her sculptures mostly have women with elongated and tall bodies, a few are couples or children. She also likes to make sculptures of hands and feet, which were taught to her by a professor who use to teach art-history.

Regarding her process of giving form to her sculptures, she said, "With time and experience, I have changed and evolved as an artist. Earlier, I was inspired more by looking at the works of other artists. Now I use my own imagination. When I am sculpting, I am in my own world, I forget the world, and can spend hours without realising how many hours have passed. Sometimes, I start with an idea but while working, I change and modify the initial idea."

The artists who have inspired her include Bruno Lucchi, based in Levico Terme. She said, "I had seen his exhibition in Vicenza and had met him. He works a lot with horizontal lines and I have copied it from him. However, I also use a lot of vertical lines, which he does not.

In Conclusion

I think that Arcisa's story of discovering her passion for sculpting after visiting an art exhibition, is very inspiring to all those persons who discover their passions later in life.

I love the sculptures of Arcisa. In a recent exhibition held at Toaldi-Capra palace in the city centre of Schio, I saw some of her works showing couples and children, which I had not seen before. The elongated bodies of her sculptures express fragility and strength at the same time.

*****

The Library & Airship of Amerigo da Schio

Recently, an old noble family of Schio opened their private library with antique books for public viewing. The family's name is "da Schio" (literally "from Schio") and they have a big villa in the city centre, in front of the Duomo church.

Count Amerigo da Schio, from this family had made the first airship in Italy and its maiden flight had taken place in Schio in 1905. This was just two years after the the Wright brothers had made their maiden flight in 1903.

This post is about the "da Schio" family's private library and the story of the first Italian airship made by Amerigo da Schio.

Civic Library of Schio

These days, our Civic library in Schio is having a mini-exhibition about antique books and handwritten manuscripts. This exhibition will be on till the end of Dec. 2024.

The tiny town of Torre Belvicino, a few kilometres north from Schio, was one of the first places in Italy where the printing press was started, soon after Johannes Gutenberg had discovered the moveable type for printing in Germany in 1440 CE. The first printed books in Torre Belvicino came out around 1460.

At the same time, the St Francis church had some antique handwritten manuscripts with some exquisitely made illustrations from 13th century. Thus, our library has an eclectic collection of antique old books. I will write a separate post about our library, its history and its old books.

For the inauguration of this exhibition of old books in the civic library, the "da Schio" family also opened the doors of their private library for the public, to show off their collection of old books.

Da Schio family in Schio

The records show that the "da Schio" family house has been there for more than a thousand years. The old pictures from 19th century show 4 houses built together. Around 1875, the building was renovated and a new façade was built, giving it a more dignified appearance, so that the four houses appear as one.

The "da Schio" family had a number of famous personalities in the past. These personalities included Manelino da Schio, mayor of Belluno in 13th century while his son Frà Giovanni da Vicenza was a well-known Catholic Dominican inquisitor (his portrait can be seen in the stained-glass windows of Santa Corona church in Vicenza). The descendents also included a bishop in the 16th century. The title of Count was given to the family in 1530 by emperor Charles V.

The family's royal symbol is a mermaid with double tail, which can be seen at the top of the house and in the family seal placed in the books (image below).

The present Count Giovanni da Schio, was born in the room above the library but today lives in their villa in Castel Gomberto. One of the Counts' son, Tommaso Amerigo, is a trained archivist. Both Giovanni and Tommaso were present during our visit to explain the history of the house and the library (first image at the top).

The remaining parts of the "da Schio" building have been made into offices and apartments. However the family still maintains the library. 

Library of the "da Schio" House 

This library has about 4000 volumes including 2 incunabulum books (the first printed books in 15th century).

The library was (and is still) not organised for subjects or authors, but rather for aesthetic reasons, putting together books of the same sizes and colours in the same shelves. Each cupboard (all are open cupboards), covering the whole length of the wall, has an alphabetical identification and the shelves are numbered. Thus, to find a specific book, one must consult a card-catalogue. There are 10 boxes of card-catalogues (shown in the first image at the top).

However, the family has started a process of digitising the book-archives.

The library room has a few pictures of Amerigo da Schio, who is considered as a famous Italian and world personality. The place of honour, in the centre of the room, is for a model of the the famous Amerigo airship hanging from the roof.

The Airship of Amerigo da Schio

Amerigo was born in Schio in 1836. Though he trained as a lawyer, he had eclectic interests including astronomy. During that period, different persons were discussing how to fly. While the Wright brothers were trying with their aeroplane, it was too heavy to be able to carry passengers.

On the other hand, others were thinking of an airship carried by a big balloon - these were also known as Blimp or Dirigible Balloon. Amerigo was among one of them, though he thought that with time, lighter metals will be found and future will belong to aeroplanes.

Hot air balloon was invented in France in 1783. Two years later, Blanchard and Jeffries crossed the English channel in a hydrogen balloon. In 1852, Giffard flew a steam-powered airship filled with hydrogen, while the Zepplin airship was invented in 1895, which were also used to bomb Britain during the first world war.

Amerigo's airship in Schio, was the first Italian airship. Making it was not easy because the parts had to be built and brought to Schio. For example, its motor was made at the Fiat factory in Turin, while the black plastic sheet fixed at the bottom to allow elastic expansion of the balloon, was made by Pirelli. It was filled with a gas made from burning some metals and other things. Underneath the balloon, a frame made from aluminium tubes was built to carry passengers. The first flight on 17 June 1905, in the area where the old hospital of Schio is located, was successful. After that it was flown a few times.

A book published to commemorate 70 years of Amerigo's airship by Arrigo Usigli, had some information about the challenges in making the airship: "Its total weight should have been around 1000 kg but the initial endothermal motors were too heavy for it. However technical progress helped by reducing this weight and a motor produced by the French Buchet was chosen, which weighed only 80 kg and provided 12 HP." (p. 25)

At one level, we can say that the invention of the airship was not very useful, because over the next few years, aeroplanes were developed and became the principle mode of flying for humans. However, Amerigo's airship innovation led to better industrial capacity in many areas in Italy, including in the Fiat and Pirelli factories.

To Conclude

If Homo Sapiens species arrived some 300,000 years ago. The writing was discovered around 3000 years ago. Till about 500 years ago, books were only handwritten and were thus called Manuscript (from Latin, Manus means hand and Script means writing). The society that reads books, arrived only some hundred-two hundred years ago. Initially, many persons, not used to the easy availability of books for general public felt that books were a bad invention, that they would have destroyed the human capacity for memorising and thinking.

While, today we can only laugh at those fears, already the world is changing. With technologies such as easy video-making with mobile phones and internet, perhaps we are moving towards a post-writing and post-book world. As has happened so many times in the past, new technology does not mean that the old things disappear. Hopefully, books will be with us for a very long time, even if they change form and become electronic or video-story tellings.

The beautiful library of the "da Schio" family is one of the treasures of humanity and hopefully, it can be preserved for future generations. 

*****

Exploring Emotional Geographies: Silvio Faggin

My friend Silvio explores and expresses emotions, sensations and feelings through photography. A few years ago, Silvio had a brain-stroke when an artery in his brain was blocked by a blood clot. He was fortunate to survive that experience. During his recovery he discovered a new way of using photography to express himself. (Note: Click on the images for a bigger view)

I was also very much into photography till a few years ago and never went anywhere without my camera. With my work in development programmes in different countries, it was a way of documenting as well as, a way of discovering countries, communities and people.

Silvio goes into photography in a completely different way, searching for emotions and feelings. His images are about capturing moods, lights, sensations, they do not bother about rules and norms of "good" photography.

For example, I love the water-colour painting like effect he can get in some of his images. This post is about Silvio Faggin, his life and his photography.

 

Silvio's Life

Silvio was born in Schio, and his first home was in Via Faccin. His father worked in making wooden furniture and he has a brother, 2 years older to him. While his brother wanted to study, Silvio says that he was not very keen to study and started working after finishing the middle school.

His first job was in a pharmacy but he did not like it and changed it after six months, when he heard about a job with a new company making electric systems. He learned on the new job and grew his skills in this field. Though he changed employers but he continued in this field of electric systems for all his working life.

In the mean time he married Patrizia and they have a son.

During mid-1980s, new design systems were introduced for making the electric systems called Programmable Logic Controller (PLC), which used computers and automation. Soon Silvio also got into PLC and thus started to work with computers. Over the years, this work grew into CNC (Computerized Numerical Control) machines. And thus, Silvio's work with computers also grew.

Silvio has travelled widely for work in a large number of countries, especially in North America and Europe. Apart from Italian, he knows Spanish and French, and over the years, has acquired proficiency in English.

Silvio's Brain Stroke

One evening in January 2018, while in the bathroom, Silvio had a brain-stroke. He was fortunate that his wife heard him and called the ambulance, which arrived quickly and took him to the Neurosurgery department in Vicenza hospital, where the doctors were able to operate and re-open his blocked artery. After about 10 days in ICU, he regained consciousness.

The stroke had caused weakness in right half of his body and loss of speech. After his recovery, he slowly regained strength in the right side of the body. However, recovering his capacity to speak took much longer - he had to work for it with a speech-therapist for about 2 years.

Silvio's Special Experience

At the time of the brain-stroke, while he lay unconscious in the bathroom, Silvio had a special experience. He felt that he had separated from his body and was visiting the eternity in the cosmos - however, these words do not express his experience adequately. He finds it to difficult to express this experience in words. He feels that this experience changed him in profound ways but again finds it difficult to explain how.

Though now he can speak, but often he continues to struggle with finding the words to express himself. Sometimes, he needs to search for the words on his mobile phone. Thus, conversation with him is punctuated with silences.

While we were talking about out-of-body experiences during the stroke, we joked about his famous cousin, Federico Faggin's book Irreducible, which is about connections between consciousness and quantum physics, (which I have just started to read but find it a little challenging to understand).

Silvio's Passion for Photography

Silvio had a camera before his stroke and he used to take pictures with it, like usual photographs. After the stroke, he discovered a new passion for photography, which was different, in the sense that now it is a way for experiencing and expressing emotions.

He explains it with the following words: "When I see something that moves me or touches me in a particular way, I want to express that emotion through my photography. I manipulate the manual settings of my camera, till I can achieve that particular emotion and click a picture. Often that first picture expresses my emotion and my way of seeing the reality."

The way he explains it, it seems that he is not experimenting with different camera settings to see different effects they can produce, but rather, using a particular setting for achieving a precise effect that he can foresee in his mind.

He downloads those images on his computer and on mobile-phone and likes to look at them to experience and re-live those same emotions.

Photography Without Technical Manipulation

A couple of months ago, I went to see a photo-exhibition with Silvio. I was surprised to discover his complete disdain for pictures which are manipulated through the different image-editing programmes. I had imagined that his own pictures were a result of similar manipulations. He was very vehement about it and insisted that he only works with manual settings on his camera and does not like making any changes with image-editing software.

Another time, while talking to him about the countries he liked, he mentioned Spain in the early 1970s, when it had just come out of Franco's dictatorship and still much less-developed. At that time also he said that he liked it because it was "less-frenetic" and more like the life in the old times.

Maybe it is that fondness for simpler lives in pre-technological era, that determines his refusal to use computer to enhance or modify his pictures?

Some years ago, I had written a post about "Zen of Photography", where I had explained how while taking pictures, I feel more isolated and can feel more deeply the things I am photographing. Silvio's experience with photography seems to me like another kind of Zen experience, where he imagines and feels the world in a specific way and then tries to capture that feeling in a picture.

In Conclusion

I feel that some of our intimate experiences are very specific to us and not easy to explain to others. We try to use common words to express them so that others may get a glimpse of what we feel, but it is an almost impossible task. In the end, each one of us is free to interpret and imagine what those words can mean.

There is another thought in my mind. We all need to communicate, because it creates connections between us and others. However, when our ability to communicate in one way is limited, we need to find other ways to express ourselves. So the question I ask myself is - has Silvio's stroke limited his ability to articulate his thoughts in the way he used to do it earlier, and because of it, he has developed a new and different way to feel the world and express himself through photography?

I want to conclude this write-up with an image of a place (above) where Silvio often goes with his dog for long walks. Even I love evening-walks in this part of Schio because I love its gentle hills and the way this area gets illuminated at sunset.

Silvio is a prickly person, easily provoked and he has his specific views about the world, things and life. Occasionally, I like provoking him to hear his indignant "NO!", when he does not agree with my ideas. For example, I wanted to have his picture for this write-up but could not convince him. However, I am glad that he agreed to share about his experiences.

*****

#photography #creativephotography #silviofaggin #schio #altovincentino #veneto

 

Weaving Emotions & Relationships Through Photography

Anastasia Moro, known in art as A.MO., with the Metamorfosi Gallery Association in Vicenza, are part of an exhibition called Tessere La Storia (Weaving the History) being held at Spazio Shed in Schio (VI) from 4th till 20th October 2024.

A.MO. was a resident artist invited to Schio earlier this year, when she visited various places and interacted with people from the city. This exhibition is a result of that experience.

The Artist: Anastasia Moro

A.MO. studied at the art school in Padova and graduated from the Inst. of Fine Arts in Venice. She now has her art studio in Borgo Veneto near Montagnana (PD). She is interested in searching for ancient artistic traditions and experimenting with them. She has been experimenting with different materials and forms.

Her work for this exhibition is a continuation of something she had started in 2023, when she had used photographs of persons' faces by weaving and mixing them together to create  collage of relationships. These works were part of an exhibition called Sacre Relazioni (Sacred Relations), held in Vicenza the final quarter of 2023.

The exhibition in Schio, goes a step further by bringing in specific places, weaving and mixing them together and exploring their relationships.

Metamorfosi Gallery Association

It is a cultural association, born in 2011 with the idea of promoting the work of local artists active in visual arts and graphics, and organises exhibitions and events. They have been part of different interesting artistic events, mainly around Vicenza and Padova. You can check their webpage and their Facebook page for more information.

Tessere La Storia Exhibition in Schio (VI), Italy

Spazio Shed is an old wool factor, converted into a big exhibition space. A.MO.'s exhibition has a mix of some giant works and some smaller works. At the same time, it is also possible to see the works created for the exhibition held in Vicenza in 2023.

I loved the sensations and feeling evoked by A.MO.'s works. Bringing together of rectangular pieces of images to compose a bigger image, reminded me of Eva Trentin's works, but a deeper look showed that the similarity between the two artists is only superficial, they come from different directions and explore different spaces.

Anastasia explained that she weaves together and mixes two black-and-white
photographs till she gets the effect that she desires. To this mix, she sometimes add silver strips, so that they can reflect the viewers and make them a part of the relationship. Sometimes, the two photographs are of the same subject, may be from different angles, at other times she can bring together two different subjects.

During her Schio-residency, she stayed at San Francesco church building, thus this building and its surroundings appear in more than one of her art-works. Usually, she starts with an idea of the effect she wants to achieve in her mind and then experiments till she gets there. She does not use digital photo-manipulation in her works.

Among her art-works presented with this post, I especially love the ones related to Mother Bakhita monument and the one in the abandoned hall of Fabbrica Alta with the papier-meché heads created for the last carnival of Schio. 

In the End

I think that it is very interesting to have an artist in residence for creating site-specific art that links with specific sites and persons in the city and gives the residents a new vision and understanding of their familiar spaces.

I found Anastasia's art-works very striking during the exhibition because of their power to evoke strong sensations and emotions. At the same time, I like looking at their high-resolution pictures for micro-views of specific pieces to understand how light and darkness interact and stimulate deeper feelings.

After living in Schio for so many years, it is refreshing to see the familiar buildings, monuments and spaces in unexpected and unfamiliar ways.

***

#photo_exhibition #installations #anastasiamoro #metamorfosi_gallery #schio_art

Amrit Lal Nagar: Creative Inspirations

Hindi writer and playwright Amrit Lal Nagar has left an incredibly vast testimony of his creative powers expressed in works ranging from short stories to fiction, satire, memoires, plays and screenplays.

In this article, I want to focus on some insights about his creative inspirations based on his book “Jinke Saath Jiya” (My Contemporaries), published in 1973. In this book Amrit Lal Nagar ji had brought together vignettes and memoirs about important figures of the 20th century’s Hindi Literature, some of whom inspired him and others, who were his friends.

Sharat Chandra Chattopadhyay

Sharat Chandra, the famous Bengali author, had died in 1938. Nagar ji wrote a vignette about him. At that time he was 22 years old. In the memoir, he wrote, “I had learned Bengali to read his books and he truly had a great influence on me”. Nagar ji had gone to meet his idol a few times.

Sharat Chandra had a house in Panibash village, about 2 miles from Devalti railway station near Hawrah, and it was there that Nagar ji went to see him during his last days. He wrote a moving account of this visit, in which he described Sharat Chandra’s deteriorating health and artistic loneliness . He concludes this account with the following words:

“To go back, after kissing his feet, as I was going to the palaki for the station, he said, “Wait Amrit, I want to show you the splendour of Roopnarayan pond”. The sky had a few stars and perhaps it was a full-moon night. He pointed towards it and said, “When the water is high and it touches my house, I love it.” Standing at the edge of pond, it was the last time that I saw that great artist.”

Surya Kant Tripathi “Nirala”

Nirala appears multiple times in different writings of this book. Nirala had died in 1961. Here I want to share a few impressions from Nagar ji’s essay from 1962, in which he had written about the first Nirala Jayanti celebrations in his village Gadhakola near Purwa town in Uttar Pradesh.

Nirala was born in a Brahmin family in Midnapore, now in Bangladesh, but had arrived in Gadhakola as a child. He grew up here, choosing to live closer to the marginalised groups and wrote some of his iconic stories regarding those persons in this house. It was here that he was tormented by the high caste rich landowners and he left it vowing to never come back.

Nagar ji writes effortlessly creating a vivid picture of different persons who had been a part of Nirala’s life when he was a poor villager, who now wished to claim a part of his glory as a renowned poet. His words express his reverence for Nirala, even while he observes the complexity of human egos and emotions. About Nirala’s closeness to the poor and the excluded he wrote:

“I started to think, why would the higher castes remember Nirala? He had never accepted their caste-superiority. He had refused their false-ideas of religion. He had listened to the voices of the poor and marginalised, fought for them and was a part of their joys and pains. That was why such a large group of his followers was a part of the procession, to show their disdain for the higher castes. I loved it. Lord Shiva has to be accompanied by his marginalised bhoot-gana.”

The Farmer Poet “Padhees”

Balbhadra Prasad Dikshit “Padhees” was Nagar ji’s contemporary and friend, famous for his poetry book “Chakkalas”.

Like Nirala above, Padhees had also chosen to move away from his Brahmin clan to become a farmer himself and to write about the lives of the poor farmers and the landless peasants in his poetry. In his book, Nagar ji dedicates a big chapter to this farmer-poet to express his own ideals of being close to the marginalised persons.

With extensive quotes from different poems of Padhees, Nagar ji’s essay explains the popularity of those words among the poor farmers because he was giving voice to the voiceless. He wrote, “Padhees’ call was like a spark to light the fire in a heap of straw. His poetry was the voice of the mute farmers of the 7 lakh villages of the country.”

Lamenting the death of Padhees at a young age, Nagari ji wrote:

“Farmer-poet Padhees was a great word-smith. Every language would be proud to have a poet like him. The beautiful, alive and heart-touching depictions of nature, villages and the village life that he presented in his Avadhi language poems would be difficult to find elsewhere … Those who had the good fortune of knowing him from close knew that he was even a far better human being.”

Jaya Shanker Prasad

Eminent Hindi writer Prasad had died in 1938, when Nagari ji was just 22 years old. Prasad was one of the early influences on the young Nagar ji.

In his essay on Prasad, Nagar ji describes the hardships he had faced when his family wealth was lost and he was crushed under the burden of debt. Yet even in those trying times, Prasad did not lose his dedication towards writing.

Nagar ji describes the lesson learned from Prasad with the following words:

“He kept his poetry hidden, he liked to keep this passion for himself. This habit meant that he kept working on his literary efforts in solitude. In Prasad’s literary journey, the stamp of this focused effort is evident. As a poet, playwright, and author of stories, books and essays, in all his different works, you can see his undivided and attentive thought-process. A creative work can be small or big, but for a serious author, they all merit equally careful attention.”

Sumitra Nandan Pant

Nagar Ji starts this vignette with Nirala in Lucknow during the 1930s. Nirala had a deep reverence for the Hindi poet Pant, and had introduced Nagar ji to his works. My favourite part of this vignette is the part when they both, Pant and Nagar ji, were in Madras (Chennai) in 1946, working with Udayshanker on his film Kalpana. This episode illustrates the source of the poet’s creativity:

“Pant ji was writing the songs for that film. He had just recovered from a long illness and often seemed lost in thoughts. There was a light in his serious face. One day, standing in the garden with his hand on my arm, he suddenly raised his head up to stare at a tree. His eyes seemed lit from inside. Clutching my arm, he said with enthusiasm, “Look my friend, the poems are raining down.” Some days after this, he started writing the poems of his book ‘Swarn Kiran’.” 

Conclusions

The sixteen portraits of contemporary authors and poets in Amrit Lal Nagar’s book “Jinke Saath Jiya”, refer to some of the iconic figures of Hindi literature of 20th century. All the portraits, while they tell about their subjects, they also throw light on their relationships with Nagar ji. They also indicate which aspects of their personality and literary efforts were perceived as significant by Nagar ji. In this sense, a critical reading of these essays provide some invaluable insights about Nagar ji, such as his admiration for those who were speaking for the poor and marginalised and fighting for their dignity.

There is so much in these essays that can be starting points for critical research on Nagar ji’s own creative works, to see how these inspirations were developed and manifested in them. For example, his admiration for some of these persons’ optimism and resilience, their knowledge of Upanishads, their respect for our cultural heritage, heritage and knowledge-systems and so on.

At the same time, one can appreciate that in these memoirs and vignettes, there is a touch of levity, humility and self-deprecation about his own creativity.

***

Notes:

1. I have translated from Hindi the different excerpts used in this write-up, trying to respect the sense of his expressions instead of making literal translations.

2. This article was published in the August 2024 issue of the magazine "DFTT" (Documentary Films & Theatrical Trust) of the Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts (IGNCA), a special issue to commemorate the 108 years of Amrit Lal Nagar, edited by Savita Nagar & Rajesh Amrohi.

#amritlalnagar #hindiwriters #hindiliterature #indianliterature

 

Portrait of an Artist: Mauro Marzari

Our little town has many public spaces for art and culture events. These continue to provide me with opportunities to discover new artists.

During a recent evening walk in the city centre, I came across the poster of an art exhibition by local artists at the Toaldi-Capra Palace and I immediately decided to take a look. Apart from some lovely watercolours, the exhibition had a few collages with mixed materials, which immediately caught my attention. All the exhibits were without titles or names of the artists. Thus, I went to ask information about the artist of the collages and discovered that he was present in the room. This is how I met Mauro Marzari, the "reluctant" artist of those collages.

This post presents my short conversation with him.

Artistic Journey of Mauro Marzari

Mauro is from Piovene Rocchette, a small town located some 7-8 km from Schio. Mauro has retired after a lifetime of working in public administration.

He explained that he was always interested in arts, and he dabbled in oil paintings. However, he decided to be sensible and look for a stable job, and not try to become an artist.

Many years later, when his family responsibilities were done, he decided to go back to his first love, the arts and joined a four years' degree course in arts at an evening course run by the Institute of Arts in Schio, while continuing to work full-time. The course gave him an opportunity to learn and experiment with different painting and sculpture techniques, and discover his own ideas about the kind of art he wanted to create.

The 5 works of Mauro, that I saw in the exhibition, all have a distinct style - they are collages with acrylics and paper. I liked all the 4 works and I think that I can look at them for long time and discover new details. My favourite is the canvass with a predominant blue colour (below).

Becoming an Artist

While talking to him, it came out that he does not feel that he can define himself as an artist, though he loves art and spends a lot of time making art. He feels that artists are persons who have dedicated their lives to the craft and have suffered all the hardships of the life for their art. About himself, he feels that he had a comfortable life and came to art when he was stable and did not have financial and family worries. Thus, he never suffered for his art.

This discussion reminded me of my feelings of being an imposter as an "Indian writer" at the Grinzane Awards in Turin in 2007, which had a focus on Indian writers and I had collaborated with them for inviting some Hindi writers. At that time, I had written a few stories and ran blogs in Hindi, English and Italian, but I did not have a book to my name and for me that was the criteria for being a writer. Now that I have completed my second novel, I feel more comfortable in being called a writer.

In the End

I loved Mauro's works. I hope that he can continue to find joy in his art and continue to develop and explore new areas as an artist.

In the end it does not matter the label we give ourselves or the labels others give us. In this era of attention-hungry influencers and publicity-peddlers, it is good to be humble and insecure, and enjoy what we do without feeling the need to show-off. 

***

#arts #artists #schio #palazzotoaldicapra #schio_arts #mauro_marzini