Venice Biennale: Art in Cannaregio 02

At the Venice Art Biennale, I visited some collateral events in Cannaregio area close to the Santa Lucia Venice railway station. You can also check the first part of this visit-diary, in which I visited 3 such events.

This second part of my visit-diary looks at the art-exhibitions at Palazzo Donà delle Rose and the International Graphic School. Both these exhibitions can be visited free till 22 November 2026. In addition, it mentions the Jesuit church Santa Maria Assunta.

 

The above image is from the Indonesian pavilion at the International school of Graphics in Venice. You can click on all the images of this post for a bigger view.

The third and last part of this diary will be about the art exhibition in Palazzo Mora, the European Cultural Centre.

1. San Donà delle Rose Palace

This Palace located at 5038 Fondamenta Nove is hosting an exhibition called Fissures of Light - Diaspora: Dissonances in F# minor, including a group of artists from Guinea Equatorial. (Left: All the artists taking part in the exhibition at this palace)

The exhibition site includes different rooms and halls spread over 2 levels.

I am presenting some of the artworks which I liked in this exhibition, starting with a couple of artists from Guinea Equatorial.

Armando Abel Dyangani Mega, Guinea Equatorial: I will start with the artworks of Armando, whom I met and spoke to at the exhibition. He said, "I was born in Bata city where I studied initially and later went to Malabo. When I was 22, I came to study art in Salamanca, Spain. Since 2013, I live in Malabo in Guinea Equatorial." 

In the image below you can see Armando Abel Dyangani Mega with two of his artworks from this exhibition.

 

Fernando Nguema Medja, Guinea Equatorial: Fernando was a self-taught artist, who

learned sculpture from his uncle sculptor Antonio Edu, and he did carvings of traditional instruments, Balele masks and other arts of Fang tradition.

He lived for some time in Gabon, where he learned from Gabonese artist Obiang Djang. He died in 2008, when he was only 45 years old.

The image presents one of his artworks in the exhibition, which has a colourful traditional sculpture of the Fang people of Equatorial Guniea. 

Ibou Ndoye, Senegal: Born in Dakar, Senegal, Ibou is known for his mixed media art work and paintings. His art is known for the "perplexed faces" of street people and emigrant lives.

Ibou's grandmother was a tie-and-dye artist and his mother a dressmaker. Perhaps, that is why his artwork in this exhibition were painted fabrics, reminding about his background.

 

He graduated from the Fine Arts School of Dakar and spent time in Paris, France, before moving to the United States. He works with glass windows, canvases, carpets, and found objects. His work blends Senegalese traditions with modern abstraction to tell stories of everyday people and cultural identity.

Yasna Kohlbrenner Koko'Ya, Switzerland:  Originally from Basel (Switzerland), Koko'Ya wants to give voice to the voiceless through her art. 

 

She has presented her artworks in exhibitions in different parts of Africa including Nigeria and Democratic Republic of Congo. Many of her artworks presented in this exhibition also had strong African influence, such as the work shown in the image.

Rosa Mundi (Chiara Modica Donà dalle Rose), Italy: Rosa has grown up between Venice and Palermo (Sicily). She has studied art at Venice, Strasbourg and Paris. In 1993, she developed the Neo-Spatialism approach to art, following the pioneering work on Spatialism (use of space) by Argentinian-Italian sculptor-artist Lucio Fontana. According to Neo-spatialism, time does not exist but is only a human perception.

Light is a key element in the artwork created by Rosa. She does experimental installations, sculptures, paintings and photography, in a rich visual language. Over the past few years, she works mainly with marble, wood and terracotta. 

Her works in the exhibition include a double-sided Pinnochio, a marble sphere and a suitcase, shown in the image. She has created the Donà dalle Rose foundation. Her website provides more information about her.

Fulvio Merolli, Italy: Fulvio studied art in Rome and in Carrara. Since early 2000s, he is involved with an artistic collective called M'Arte Scultura. 

He is known for his monumental works displayed in public spaces as well as, for sacred spaces, especially in the Carrara marble.

In this exhibition, Fulvio has three artworks, all three in Carrara marble. The image below shows his artwork of a swimmer and the waves of water, all created with marble.

 

Martin Emschermann, Germany-Italy: Martin was born in Freiburg im Breisgau in Germany, studied art in Carrara, Italy and since 1990 lives in Palermo (Sicily, Italy), where he works as a sculptor. Over the past decades, he is known for his series of works on different themes.

For example, you can see his amazing sculptures of children made with iron and polyester resin and in partially maiolicated terracotta in his portfolio on his webpage. 

In this exhibition he has a few terracotta sculptures of children playing with soap bubbles that are absolutely amazing.  

2. The Jesuit Church

Coming out of the Donà delle Rose palazzo, I briefly stopped outside the Jesuit church dedicated to the ascension of St Mary (Santa Maria Assunta), which was originally built in 1128, while the present church building is from 1728.

At the top of the church is the marble sculpture of St Mary with the angels by Giuseppe Torretto while the front façade has the statues of the 12 apostles. Built by the crusaders, this church has many beautiful artworks including a painting by Tintoretto.

I was in a hurry and did not have the time to stop and visit the inside of this church. After the church my next stop was Palazzo Moro, but I am planning to write a full post dedicated to it, so I will proceed straight away to my last stop in Venice on this visit - the international school of Graphics in Calle Seconda del Cristo.

3. Indonesian Artists at the International School of Graphics

The first image of this post at the top shows one of the installations by an Indonesian artist, made like a well, that was supposed to collect rain water and whatever other materials wind brought to it.

The Indonesian exhibition was structured around an imaginary journey of Datu Na Tolu Hamonangan, the archivist of Harajaon Pusuk Buhit kingdom in 15th century Indonesia, from Lake Toba, to west Sumatra, to Malacca, passing from India and Egypt and reaching Venice. Incisions of different Indonesian artists are presented in this exhibition to depict this journey.

 

For example, the two images (above and below) are artworks of Agus Suwage using different materials and techniques such as linocut, water-colour and tobacco juice, present the journey in the east and in India.

 

The next image has oil portraits of imagined people he met during the journey and are by Ristyo Eko Hartanto.

 

In the End

I want to conclude this second part of my visit-diary with details of a sculpture by Martin Emschermann, that I liked very much.

 

The next, third and last, part of my visit diary will focus on the artworks in Palazzo Mora.

*****

Venice Biennale: Art in Cannaregio 01

Venice Art Biennale 2026 was inaugurated in May, but it was so hot during this summer that I kept on postponing my visit. Now, the temperatures have come down but I am troubled by knee pains.

In the end, I thought that I will go to see some of the collateral art events in Cannaregio, near the Venice Santa Lucia railway station, as it does not need too much walking.

Venice Art Biennale and most of the collateral events will be on till 20 November 2026. 

This is the first part of my visit-diary to collateral events of Venice Art Biennale in Cannaregio area of Venice. 

The image on the left shows the Church of Abbey of Compassion, my first stop on this Venice art-walk. (You can click on all the images for a bigger view) 

All the places that I visited during this visit had free entry. 

1. Art at the Church of Abbey of Compassion (Chiesa dell'Abbazia della Misericordia)

I started my walk with this ex-church (image above) that is used frequently for art exhibitions and events. The old church has a big hall with a beautiful ceiling painted in blue with stars.

There are two artists in this hall - Patty Toro Ribbeck from Santiago in Chilli and Keiko Yamagiwa from Tokyo, Japan.

Patty Toro Ribbeck 

Patty studied art in Florence. She explores the themes of identity, intimacy and sensuality, especially in terms of femminine sensibility through accessories made with ceramics. Originally trained as a designer, she teaches decorative ceramic painting and glass modelling.

 

Patty showed me a box with tiny ceramic works (image above) in different shapes that she had prepared for use with her work. She explained that the first step is to prepare these ceramic pieces, which she then colours and fixes them with a second oven-heating, and then uses them for making her art works.

 

For the exhibition in Venice, she has taken eye-glasses and converted each of them as an artwork by adding and fixing the tiny ceramic pieces in different shapes and colours to each frame (3 examples shown above - click for a bigger view). Thus, each of her artwork looked like a pair of eye-glasses expressing a specific femminine personality.

Keiko Yamagiwa 

Keiko is from Japan and she went to an art school in London, UK. Over the last years she is experimenting with performance-installations in which two persons enter a space created by a translucent black sheath and play with inter-relationships and intimacy created in that space. She experiments with locations and different shapes of the sheath, in which the spectators add an additional layer of relationship as they look at them from outside.

 

More recently, she has also experimented with these performance-installations by involving hundreds of persons covered under enormous black sheaths. In one such performance, she showed the picture in which the participants had raised their hands to hold the sheath in what seemed to be synchronised movement, without Keiko or anyone actually guiding this process.

You can see some of the Venetian experiences of these two artists, including some where they partecipate in each other's art on their Instagram pages - Patty & Keiko. 

2. Fallani Venezia Screen-Printing Workshop 

The Fallani Venezia workshop on Calle Lunga Santa Caterina, on my way to Fondamenta Nuova was not a part of Venice Biennale but as I was walking, I saw some beautiful prints inside and went inside to look at some of them.

It was an opportunity to talk to its owner Gianpaolo Fallani (in the picture with an artwork of Dario Fo) and learn about Serigraph Printing or the Silk-screen printing. It is a specialised way of making artistic prints. Gianpaolo explained to me that the first step is artist makes an artwork and brings to the workshop. A digital copy of that artwork is first made and a silk-screen (actually now they use a synthetic tissue instead of silk) is stretched and fixed on a wooden frame. Then a film with parts corresponding to each colour designed in black are put in front of the tissue-screen and exposed to strong light, so that the exposed parts become hard and the black parts remain soft, which is then washed. Thus, through this complicated process the silk/tissue screen is prepared with that artistic design which is then used make prints.

Gianpaolo explained that during the times of his father Fiorenzo Fallani many famous Italian artists such as Renato Guttuso, Salvatore Fiume, Emilio Vedova and Fabrizio Plessi, used to come to this workshop for their printing. Even today artists come there for their specialised printing. During my visit, he was busy working on an artwork made by an American artist. He also hosts artists for art-residencies so that they can find out the artistic possibilities of this screen-printing techniques. The webpage of the workshop has a large number of known names from the contemporary art world, including Gianpaolo Fallani himself.

In 2018, Gianpaolo Fallani received the Maestro d'Arte e Mestieri award (MAM - Master of Art and Crafts award) and his screen-printing laboratory is part of the "Diffused Museum of Paper and Prints" in Venice.

3. Fondamenta Nuove Theatre - David Cerny

My third stop was the Theatre, which is hosting an exhibition of the artworks of the Czech artist David Cerny.

Born in a family of artists in 1967, David studied art in Prague. He has won numerous awards including the most promising young Czech artist in 2000. In 2001, he launched a non-profit for contemporary art called Meetfactory and in 2017 he started Black n' Arch an architectural studio for innovative approaches to architecture and design. Apart from being an artist and architect, he is active in the areas of cinema and music.

He has different art works in the theatre, for me among them the most striking are three works -

(1) A sculpture of American President Donald Trump, sitting on a multi-coloured chair made of Lego-like pieces, his head bowed down, looking sad and thoughtful. He is shown wearing a half white and half dark suit, with one white shoe and the other dark, with his trademark magenta tie. 

(2) A wax sculpture of a dead man, lying on the floor among scattered pieces of glass, his eyes unseeing and open. Like Trump, he is also shown half real, with flesh and colours, and half white coloured mannequin.

 

(3) A film about the chimpanzee holding a human thigh bone and using it to playfully hit on other bones, including many skulls lying scattered in an area. It was as if a child was playing at the scene of a massacre.

All his different artworks are visually very striking and in a way disturbing. For example, looking at the man lying dead surrounded by broken glass, with his glazed eyes, looked so real that I was shocked.

In The End

This is the first part of the diary of my visit to art-events in Cannaregio area of Venice.

The second part will deal with some more smaller spaces, similar to the ones presented here, while the third part will be dedicated to the artworks in Palazzo Mora, the European Culture Centre.

The Venice Art Biennale is much more than this - apart from the numerous country pavilions which require an entry ticket, there are many other collateral events in other parts of Venice, which have free entry. My only problem is that I might need a knee-replacement to be able to look at all of them!

 

The last image of this post (above) has an overview of the hall hosting the David Cerny's installations. 

***** 

Roberto Sperotto - A Passion for History

The Vicenza-Schio railway line completes 150 years in 2026. It was built in 1876 to facilitate transport of cargo from numerous wool mills of Schio. During early 1900s, this railway line had different extensions including to Pieve Bel Vicino, Piovene Rocchette, Arsiero and Asiago.

To celebrate this 150th anniversary, recently an exhibition was organised in Schio, which presented the historical collection of documents and photographs of Roberto Sperotto.

 

I had an opportunity to talk to Roberto to about his passion for the history of this region around late 1800s and early 1900s, especially related to the period of the first world war.

This post is about Roberto Sperotto and his passion for history.

Alto Vicentino and the World War One

The area around Vicenza is known as Vicentino. The north-west part of Vicentino has the Alps, specifically the Little Dolomites and is known as Alto Vicentino (High Vicentino) because of its higher altitude.

 

Till early 1900s, the Alps mountains of Alto Vicentino marked the border between the Austro-Hungarian empire and Italy. This border was the site of different battles during World War One.

For example, you can check my posts on the War Cemeteries of Alto Vicentino and on the Centenary of Pasubio War Memorial.

Talking to Roberto Sperotto

Roberto was born and lives in Breganze, some kms to the west of Schio, an area known for its beautiful rolling hills and vineyards. He runs an agency in Breganze for driving licences and their renewals.

Roberto's key interest has been in the crucial role, engineering skill, and heroic contributions of the Italian military engineering corps (Arma del Genio) during World War I, and he has been collecting documents and photographs about it in Alto Vicentino. His collection about the local railway lines is part of WWI collection, as the railways had played a big role in the war. 

 

About his archival collection about history of Alto Vicentino around the first World War, Roberto explained, "There was an old house in the periphery of Rocchette, and I discovered that it was one of the buildings of the Rocchette-Asiago railway line. I started reading about the old railway lines and gradually collected different documents and photographs to have a global view of these railway lines and its different aspects, in relation to the world war."

Initially all these railway lines to Schio and its extensions belonged to a private society, "Società Veneta", and were nationalised in 1906. Alessandro Rossi, well-known industrialist of Schio running different wool-mills in this area, played a key role in their construction.

Initially the railway lines were built in narrow gauge because they were near the border with the Austro-Hungarian empire and they felt that these could be used to attack them. Thus, the main Italian railway with its broad gauge could not be used to bring munitions and heavy machinery to the border.

Roberto took me around the exhibition, sharing anecdotes about how he had managed to collect different pictures and documents, how specific parts of the railway lines were built, how the railway lines were used during the war. For example, he explained that the Austrian troops were on a higher level and thus, the Italian army thought that they could have poisoned the water of the torrents coming down and thus, preferred to carry water up the railway line to Asiago.

Roberto's Archives in His Books 

Roberto has a big archive of documents & photographs about this region and has written 3 books about the history of Alto Vicentino during World War I - 

(1) 1915-1918 War Railway Lines in Vicentino (1915-1918 - Ferrovie di Guerra Nel Vicentino) - written with Francesco Brazzale, published by Edizioni Grafiche Leoni, 2014: The book starts with the difficulties caused by limited railway lines in this part of Italy when the war between Austria and Italy was declared in May 2015. A couple of images about the railway line in Schio from this book are presented below.  

(2) The War Villas - 6th Armed Division & Military Engineering Corps (Ville di Guerra - La 6a Armata e il Genio), published by Edizioni Grafiche Leoni, 2018: This book looks at the villas located along the old Gasparona road connecting Thiene to Marostica and their role in the World War One, and how these were taken over by the military commands during the war. This book focuses especially on the 6th Army which included Italian, French, British and Czechoslovakian troops. 

(3) The Ferrarin Cousins - Men and Pilots (I Cugini Ferrarin - Uomini e Piloti), written with Roberto Mantiero, published by Grafiche Leoni sas, 2020: This book shares documents and pictures of Italian air-force pilots during the WWI, especially Francesco Ferrarin & Arturo Ferrarin, along with others like Leonello Marani, Girolamo Allegri,  Luigi Bourlot. The book also touches on the role of the well-known Italian writer, poet and Journalist, Gabriele d'Annunzio in the war.

Historical Images of Schio from the Book by Roberto Sperotto

Roberto's books are a rich source of historical images and documents from that period. As an example, two images from Sperotto's book "1915-1918 - Ferrovie di Guerra Nel Vicentino" are presented below, which are about the railway station of Schio.

(1) The first is an illustration about the visit of Prince Umberto in Schio for the inauguration of the Vicenza-Schio railway line in 1876. (click on the image for a bigger view)

 

(2) The second is an image of families leaving Schio as the first world war broke out in the nearby Pasubio mountains in Spring 1916.

World War One - A British Postcard

The next two images from the Roberto Sperotto's collection are of a picture-postcard of the Schio railway station sent home to one "Mrs Arnold" by an English soldier, dated 12 Nov 1918 by the war field office, on which the military sensor had cancelled the word "Schio", so that the location is not revealed. (Click on the images for a bigger view)

 

This same image was also used on the poster for the exhibition held in Schio for the 150th anniversary of the Vicenza-Schio railway line. 
 

In Conclusion

Roberto shows that persons moved by their passions can be an invaluable resource for collecting and safeguarding the micro-histories of small places, that are usually ignored by official historians and record-keepers working at international, national and regional levels.  

For the persons of Alto Vicentino, Roberto's photographic and documental archives are a wonderful resource about a crucial period of their local history.  

 *****

Schio - Yesterday & Today

The inspiration for this post came from a guided tour of the city centre held on 10 May 2026, in which Chiara from Cooperativa Trama spoke about some forgotten stories of places, people and events from the centre of Schio during the past few centuries.

During this visit, I learned about the printing press of Paolo Marzari, located near the railway station, who had become famous for his picture postcards, sold all over Italy, in late 19th and early 20th century. This was a period of big changes in Schio, especially due to the development of wool factories of local industrialist, Alessandro Rossi. For example, the railways connecting Schio to Vicenza was built around 1876 and inaugurated by Prince Umberto. The road in front of the railway station leading to the central Piazza Rossi was built some years later.

During the 1980s, the municipality of Schio published a book (Schio: Immagini del Primo '900,  Dall'Archio Fotografico P. Marzari, 1982) about the photographic archives of Marzari. For this post I have taken some of the images from this book and compared them with how those places look today.

Photographs Used for This Post

All the black and white images used in this post are from the above-mentioned book about the photographic archives of Paolo Marzari. (click on the images for a bigger view)

All the colour photographs next to each B/W image are mine. The main reasons why it was not possible to take my images from the same exact place from where the B/W pictures were clicked - some old buildings are no more and many new buildings and trees are in their place.

At the Castello

I have selected 2 images from the Castello hill of Schio - first is the high school built there in early 20th century which now hosts the Liceo delle Science Umane (Human Sciences high school). The passage shown in the B/W image is now closed with an iron grill surrounding the school. (click on the images for a bigger view)

 

The second image is at top of the hill with its clock tower and the Santa Maria della Neve church (St Mary of the Snows church) and the old big Tiglio (Lime) tree, which was removed in early 1900s. There were two big trees and because of them, this area was called Tajara in the local dialect. There were few trees at that time, which were planed mainly after the second world war and now make this hill very beautiful due to the autumn leaves.  

Santa Maria della Salute Chapel

This 15th century chapel was located along the path which came down from the Castello hill and was separated by walls as it passed the Brolo (fields) of Count Da Schio, and went towards the old TB hospital and St. Francis church. Underneath the chapel is the Gaminella water-spring that led to a small pond.

 

Today the walls around the Chapel are gone, a lot more trees are there and only the initial part of Gaminella water-spring is visible close to the chapel, the rest of the spring water lies underneath Via Gaminella in front of the chapel.

Around Duomo church and Piazza Rossi 

Duomo church from 15th century and the square in front of it, Piazza Rossi, are the centre of Schio. It used to a closed square with two exits - the road going to the west, called Corobbo (today Via Carducci) and the road going towards the town and Castello (today Piazza Garibaldi). The next image shows road in front of Piazza Rossi going towards Corobbo, in which Via Capitano Sella was opened.

The next image shows Via Cavour, running next to the Duomo church, which has changed very little.

 

The image below has Via Garibaldi seen from the Garibaldi square.

 

The next image has a view of Via Battaglione Leogra and Piazza IV Novembre, with its monument to the Pasini brothers. This road was built in 1900 and connected Piazza Rossi with the railway station and was first called Via Umberto, to remember the inauguration of the railway station by prince Umberto.

It used to have a Covered Market (Mercato Coperto), now replaced by a bank. There used to be an ice-vendor behind the market (Giassaia in local dialect) now remembered in the name of Via Giasara behind the bank.

The next image has Via Battiglione Leogra (this name was given after the second world war) showing the Pasubio printing press, which is no longer there. On the right, the images show the entrance to Piazza Statuto, which hosts the municipal offices of Schio.

 

The next image has Piazza Statuto with Palazzo Garbin which hosts the Municipal offices of local government in Schio.

 

The last image from this part of the city is Casa dei Canarini (the house of the colourful birds) on Via Mazzini, further along the Via Carducci, with frescoes of guards wearing colourful costumes. People believe that this house hosted the centre of city guards, but no evidence has been found for it.

 

The Railway Station and the Roads Around it

The railway station was inaugurated 150 years ago in 1876. It had big freight port for the wool industries of Schio, which now hosts a clothes shop. However the railway station itself has changed very little, except for the buildings behind it and the number of cars in front of it. 

The road in front of the railway station, Via Baccarini, going towards Sant'Antonio church has changed completely and the church is hardly visible from this point, hidden behind the buildings.

 

As we walk from the railway station towards Sant'Antonio, the crossing where Via Baccarini meets Via Maraschin has a roundabout with a monument to Alessandro Rossi. The B/W image below shows the inauguration of this monument made by Giulio Monteverde in 1902, the colour picture next to it has the inauguration of the renovated monument with the mayor Walter Orsi and some members of the Rossi family, on 29 June 2018.

  

Behind the Rossi monument and opposite Sant'Antonio church is a square called Donatori di Sangue (Blood donaters). The next image shows this square and the St. Antonio church.

 

A little further down the road is the Civic Theatre built in 1907-08. It was closed down during the first world war and then during the second world war, but has been renovated a few years ago.

 

Around the Leogra Bridge

First it was a wooden bridge built in 1742, the stone bridge was made in 1852 and it was reinforced and enlarged in 1926. It connected the 2 communes - Schio and Magre, which were combined together under Schio, 2 years later in 1928. Just after the bridge, on the Magre side of Leogra was a Tiro a Segno (shooting range), whose building can be seen from the Schio side in the image below.

 

The shooting range building can be seen from the Magre side in the image below. It now has some monuments to the Italian marines who died in the wars, a big parking and a popular open air bar called Molo 517 that is open in the summers.

 

The third image from this area shows Via Riva di Magre, the road that goes up towards the central areas of Magre.

 

Carrozzeria Luigi dalla Via

The Dalla Via workshop was located beyond the cemetery area of Schio. Started in 1905, it was one of the biggest Italian constructors of the external bodies vans, buses and trucks, but especially of buses. It closed in 2007. The image below shows the workshop area.

Via Baratto

The last image of this post is of Via Baratto taken from the roundabout of Via Rompato, and going towards St Francis church. Even this area has not changed much though because of a busy car parking, I was unable to include the gate on the right side in my image.

 

In The End

Let me conclude this post with the cover of the book from which all the B/W images of the Paolo Marzari's photographic archives have been taken.

I had a lot of fun, going around and trying to get the same or similar views as in the original pictures. Most of the time, it was impossible to get the same view but I feel that these pictures do show that the places are same.

If you live in Schio or are visiting here, I hope that these images help you to get an idea of the changing histories of our urban landscapes.

 

*****